1/8/18 – 1/14/18 Training Journal

The theme of this week was, “Am I getting sick? I’m getting sick. No, not quite sick, maybe tomorrow?! Tomorrow I’ll be sick?!” Thus, it was an easy-ish load of training. Trying not to overdo it, as everyone around me seems to be inflicted with the plague.

Monday, 1/8/18

Morning: bouldering @Movement, 1.5 hours. All the V0’s, 1’s, 2’s, 3’s save for two. Did two other V4’s to sort of make up the difference. Thought this better than to force the top of two problems that were giving me problems, and hurt my finger even more.

Afternoon: quick run up Freeway on the Second. A little bit of ice on the trail down low, but other than that, quite the day. Seems like a fun micro-route to try to snag the FKT from in the Spring.

Back to the gym, w/1 hour spin on the bike; felt like I was going pretty fast going nowhere, there.

General Lower Body Stretching

Ankle PT

  • Right Dorsiflextion starting @ 2″ (1″ loss) ; finishing @  2.5″;   .5″ improvement
  • Left Dorsiflextion starting @ 3.5″ (3/4″ loss); finishing @  4″;  .5″ improvement

I guess the lapse in ankle dorsiflextion makes sense with the string of runs and rides, and I’m confident that’ll bounce back up. No real swelling in ankles to speak of.

  • Balance Board Blind – a bit shaky, like my inner ear is a little less than dialed – that usually happens when I get sick.
  • Lacrosse Ball Massage on the bottom of the foot, two minutes each foot

That’s all I really did for my ankle today – my right ankle just felt a bit touchy, so why push things?

Vinyasa Yoga, 1hr

Reverse Wrist Curls, 3 x 25 @ 10lbs. This is starting to get easy, so I’ll up the weight next time.

Tuesday, 1/9/18 – Off

Sick? Am I sick? I’m feeling like I’m just waiting for the inevitable to hit…

Wednesday, 1/10/18

Quick ride to (and back from) Ultimate Direction to talk to the designers about future things

Every time I do this ride I think, “there’s probably a more dirt-friendly route” and every time right before I remember I forgot to research this. Bad Justin!

In the evening, I was back at Movement for bouldering, 2hrs. Fairly unstructured. Finger is still giving me issues (my current broken record). Every time I boulder, I think, “I should just rest this thing”, then in a few days, I want to boulder more.  Every sess. seems stronger than the last, but the finger is still the limiting factor to my climbing.

Some pullups afterwards, 2 x 7, 1 x 4, 1 x 5 – and then I just couldn’t do anymore, as my finger hurts too much from simply applying pressure to the pad. Perhaps time for some lifting straps, if I won’t stop cold?

Thursday, 1/11/18

1hr Spin

General Lower Body Stretching

Ankle PT

  • Right Dorsiflextion starting @ 2.25″ (.25″ loss) ; finishing @  2.5″;   .25″ improvement
  • Left Dorsiflextion starting @ 3.5″ (.5″ loss); finishing @  3.75″;  .25″ improvement
  • Lacrosse Ball Massage on the bottom of the foot, 3 minutes each foot
  • Balance Board Blind -still feeling a little off/impending DOOM (getting sick)
  • Ankle band work push + pull, two minutes each side, each way.

Vinyasa Yoga, 1hr

Friday, 1/12/18

Boulder @ Movement, 2hr

Felt really strong, despite my finger injury. New V5 I’ve been working on, on/off. Start is very hard, balance-y, to a few powerful moves. Just had to get the start, and commit. Repeat of a V3 on the 45 deg. wall, and a repeat of V4 right next to it. Seems the V4 is easier for me, despite it being more moves. More notes in my… notes about taking time off for finger.

Ankle PT

  • Right Dorsiflextion starting @ 2.25″ (.25″ loss) ; finishing @  2.75″;   .5″ improvement
  • Left Dorsiflextion starting @ 3.75″ (same); finishing @  4″;  .25″ improvement
  • Lacrosse Ball Massage on the bottom of the foot, 3 minutes each foot
  • Balance Board Blind – felt a bit better
  • Ankle band work push + pull, two minutes each side, each way.
  • Calf Barbell Smashes – 4 passes – almost not painful, now!
  • PT Ankle Walks
  • Wall Downward Facing Dog, 4 x 30 secs.
  • PT ankle Ledge work

so much PT…

Saturday, 1/13/18 – Off. Woke up way late, fearing the worst. Although energy levels were low, no other symptoms. Can you tell I don’t want to get sick?

Sunday, 1/14/18 – another late rising day, but get my ass to the gym, anyways:

Boulder @ Movement, 2hrs

Focused today mostly in the cave, on wildly overhanging problems, and especially on one V4 I could complete in two parts, but just couldn’t put together. I may have just been too tired, but no hand or foot beta seemed to unlock and easy path for me. Feeling fat, or maybe just weak. The cave seems to be a good angle for my finger, strangely enough (not so much weight on the pad)

Ankle PT

  • Right Dorsiflextion starting @ 2.75″ (same) ; finishing @  2.75″ – same
  • Left Dorsiflextion starting @ 4.25″ (.35″ improvement); finishing @  4.25″ – same
  • Lacrosse Ball Massage on the bottom of the foot, 3 minutes each foot
  • Balance Board Blind – felt a bit better
  • Ankle band work push + pull, two minutes each side, each way.
  • PT Ankle Walks
  • PT ankle Ledge work, but only step downs – instead I did some eccentric heel drops slowly, rather than at mach speed. My ankle gets destroyed at the “mach speed” style – just seems too tender to do this at the moment.

Also bumped up my core work a bit today,

Core Work

  • front plank, left foot off for 30 seconds; switching to right foot off for 30 seconds; 60 seconds total
  • reverse plank, same (very hard)
  • side planks, 1 x 60 seconds
  • supermans 1×60 seconds
  • hollow body hold 1 x 60 seconds
  • lying windshield wipers 1 x 15
  • seated kayaks 1 x 15 w/25lbs
  • lying leg lifts 1×15

Reverse Wrist Curls, 3 x 25 @ 12lbs

General lower body stretching

Myrtl Routine


Not the most productive week in the aerobic department, but too much of that type of activity can wreck me, health-wise, and it just felt like I was on the verge of getting sick, all week. We’ll see what next week brings!

 

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